ok, get the number one cylinder on compression which you will feel with your finger. bring it to TDC. you need to find the timing mark which is usually just TDC on them old engines. then once at TDC you loosen the distributor and put a piece of paper between the points. turn the distributor a small bit the same way the rotor rotates, as per firing order. then you backup the distributor till you can just pull the paper out , like very very slow in the rotation. once that paper is movable stop and tighten the distributor down. you are now statically timed. but of course the points have to be set to spec first. and always last is the carb adjustment. plus of course the valves will need to be set. plus when you have that side cover off you can see if the valves are all lifting the same amount. so confirm your timing and carb them proceed on to check the valves by removing the side cover. simple stuff first. plus you said carb is set to what the book says,... always nice to repeat that here many times them mistakes can be caught . many people dont know a main jet needle from the mixture needle. so post your actual number of needle valve turns off the seat. that a standard procedure also. you need to know where your at. now you can go to it.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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