Posted by Janicholson on July 05, 2023 at 20:22:13 from (24.240.46.228):
In Reply to: Alternator problems posted by NHbalerman on July 05, 2023 at 18:29:25:
I have a 95amp 10SI from an Oldsmobile. 3 wire setup, not a one wire, on my old Jeep. If your alternator is a one wire (as stated) it may not be reaching the RPM needed to make it start charging. One wires require alternator residual output to start, or a continuously on setup in the internal regulator, which can drain the battery when operated only once a month or so. The three wire setup is really going to do the trick. Terminal B (big output stud) has a 10 gauge wire to the battery (through a fuse link that is 5% larger in amp rating than the chosen 10SI) the #2 sedge spade terminal also attaches to that same big stud with a #12 wire and terminal ring. The number 1 terminal connects to the ignition at the Key/switch, not the coil. Ford engines use a resistor in the ignition circuit quite often, and this connection needs a switched 12v. The wire just described must have a resistor in it this keeps the alternator from making the engine keep running with the switch off. The resistor can be one of three things, it can be a light bulb like a marker light, a 10 ohm resistor (not the same as a ballast resistor), or a diode that allows electricity to flow from Key to alternator, but not the other way) 4 amp 100piv diodes are cheap from Ebay. the band on the diode needs to be facing the alternator. Jim
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