''A + wire connected to each of the + terminals and spliced together into 1 wire?''
That's going too make a nasty spark and let lots of smoke out of the wiring if actually connected as you are thinking!
Have you tried running the marker control on the RH battery and verified if uneven discharge would actually be a problem?
(ASSUMING the batteries are wired correctly/as they were when the tractor left the factory.)
(Depends upon how much power the marker control actually uses.)
One ''workaround'' ''back in the day'' was to use alligator clips on the control box power wires and switching between batteries every so many hours of use.
Doing that depends upon if the negative power wire is connected to the chassis of the marker control.
If it IS and the box is mounted/grounded to the tractor you CANNOT power it from the LH battery. (Again ASSUMING the tractor is wired ''as original.)
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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