Oliver 600/David Brown 990. The light thing is odd to me too. It didn't actually have an idiot light to begin with. There's a small hole drilled in the dash and I could see a light come on down there when I turned the key on. It would go off as soon as the tractor started. When I looked up in there today, all I could see was a light socket that looks like it should be plugged in to the back side of a gauge or the tach or something. There was no bulb in it. I might have blown it right out with the pressure washer.
I thought somebody way smarter than me had rigged it up as a make shift idiot light. It's a one wire Delco for sure. The tractor originally would have had a Lucas generator. Like I said, it worked before I started cleaning it up and painted it. I took the wire right off the post and checked it with the meter and a test light. I don't know why I'm not getting power to it from the battery. It should be hot, either with the key on or off, but I would think either way. If the alternator actually works, you say it should charge by just running a jumper wire to the post from the positive battery terminal, correct? None of the connections were off when I painted it, so that's not the issue.
I did put a new switch on it during the process. I got it from DB Parts LTD and they said it was the correct switch for the tractor. There are 4 posts on the switch. I thought I had it hooked up the same as the old one. There are five wires. Two go in to the same connector and go on one post that only has power when the switch is on. Another one hooks to the other post that only has power when the key is on. The other two hook to the posts that have power all the time. One or both of those has to be coming from the solenoid to provide live power directly to it. What has me confused is why none of those wires is putting power to the alternator post at all, switch on or off.
But still, just using that jumper wire to the battery, the voltage doesn't change with it running.. Yes, I revved it up. Not my first one wire alternator.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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