Sorry Tom did not greet you in my 1st reply, hello and welcome to YT! I did not give you much info on how to remove the tapered stud. In the link is a similar part to what you are dealing with. I am wondering if part 37 will just unbolt to allow you to get the cylinder off then deal with removal if that is what you need to do. The best way is to pound on the side of the part that the taper is inserted in. I am talking about swinging at it with a 2 lbs hammer as hard as you can hit it. You are trying to microscopically egg shape the tapered hole the tapered stud is inserted into to cause it to pop free. Another thing that helps if possible is to ..counter weight.. the part the taper is in with a back up hammer or sledgehammer. Look at the picture and pretend the nut is the part you want to pound on. Another method is the place the nut on backwards so it is flush with the end of the stud and pound it attempting to drive it out. This method seems less effective than pounding the sides but can work. Good luck!
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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