Sorry Tom did not greet you in my 1st reply, hello and welcome to YT! I did not give you much info on how to remove the tapered stud. In the link is a similar part to what you are dealing with. I am wondering if part 37 will just unbolt to allow you to get the cylinder off then deal with removal if that is what you need to do. The best way is to pound on the side of the part that the taper is inserted in. I am talking about swinging at it with a 2 lbs hammer as hard as you can hit it. You are trying to microscopically egg shape the tapered hole the tapered stud is inserted into to cause it to pop free. Another thing that helps if possible is to ..counter weight.. the part the taper is in with a back up hammer or sledgehammer. Look at the picture and pretend the nut is the part you want to pound on. Another method is the place the nut on backwards so it is flush with the end of the stud and pound it attempting to drive it out. This method seems less effective than pounding the sides but can work. Good luck!
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Today's Featured Article - Good As New - by Bill Goodwin. In the summer of 1995, my father, Russ Goodwin, and I acquired the 1945 Farmall B that my grandfather used as an overseer on a farm in Waynesboro, Georgia. After my grandfather’s death in 1955, J.P. Rollins, son of the landowner, used the tractor. In the winter 1985, while in his possession the engine block cracked and was unrepairable. He had told my father
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