There is a valve operated by the side- side movement of the hydro lever when it's in the neutral position that creates a ''dead spot'' so the tractor doesn't move/creep in the neutral position. The mechanism that operates that valve is worn and/or out of adjustment causing that valve to be actuated when the hydro lever is in the ''forward''position. It's possible an adjustment will help, but too much change will shift the problem from the forward to the reverse side.
Likely, replacement or repair by welding up the up the worn parts and grinding them back to shape will be needed. Having a factory service manual is essential if you are going to repair it yourself.
As always, BE CAREFUL when working with the hydro control mechanism that the tractor doesn't move unexpectedly and crush you or run over you or bystanders!
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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