Bfinney, In addition to what I wrote earlier... If you are going to have a loader on the tractor then having crisp steering is not so important. Loaders make any tractor kind of an ungainly beast anyway. I also have a 3600 and there is little to compare the two. A 4400 is built on the 4000 chassis so will be heavier, longer, have more HP and much better brakes. They are built to wear a loader whereas a 3600 is a lighter, more nimble, less loader capable machine. I don't need a loader. I wanted a tractor that was short and low like a 3600 but with the features and grunt of a 4000 yet with crisp steering - for mowing and work in my woods. Thus my foray into industrial models. And tightening up the worn pins and linkages wasn't so bad. I used a carbide drill to drill the little link plates to a slightly larger metric size and used hardened metric pins - all off the shelf stuff. For loader work I would take a 4400 over a 3000/3600 hands down. Lastly, you stated that to drop the pan on your MF 30B you need to split the tractor. Well, sad but true, that is pretty much the case with a 4400 too. Not between the engine and transmission but the front axle has to drop down and the front bolster has to slide forward about 3'' to do it. I suspect some sort of a split is neccessary on most brands of industrial tractors but only know my Fords.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Plugs & Compression Testing - by Curtis Von Fange. The engine seems to run rough. In the exhaust you can hear an occasion 'poofing' sound like somethings not firing on all cylinders. Under loaded conditions the tractor seems to lack power and it belches black smoke out of the exhaust. For some reason it just doesn't want to start up without cranking and cranking the starter. All these conditions can be signals that your unit is in need of a tune up. Ok, so what is involved in a tune up? You say, swap plugs and file the points....now tha
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