I worked in a stove store back in the 80's. I would say you need to stay with the 8 flue. The stove outlet is designed for the size of the firebox and the size of the door. Go smaller and you will have problems with smoke in the room when you open the door. As far as smoke and gases exiting the chimney, there are a lot of variables - height mainly, temperature outside, barometric pressure, etc. If the stove is too big to begin with, you will be running it low and more likely to build creosote and have problems.
Back then the new innovation for relining fireplaces was to break out all the old tile, insert an inflatable balloon in the chimney, and pour a special concrete mix around the balloon. That mix was supposed to fill any voids in the chimney blocks or stone and insulate the flue. Was pricey back then. I supposed there must be improved versions of that still around.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulic Basics - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In the last entry to this series we gave a brief overview of hydraulic system theory, its basic components and how it works. Now lets take a look at some general maintenance tips that will keep our system operating to its fullest potential. The two biggest enemies to a hydraulic system are dirt and water. Dirt can score the insides of cylinders, spool valves and pumps. Wate
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