Most of the old IH tractors that used a single piece seal already have a wear sleeve for the crank. My 806with the D-361 engine has them and something else we had apart did also. 3406 Cat uses a wear sleeve with the rear main seals also. If it had the old rope seal then it would not need one since you roll the rope into the groove with a smooth shaft till you have worked all the rope into the groove and yes the crank would turn a bit stiff at first till the seal wore in and it is oiled well at installation. As for your seal collapsing I would worry about useing a chisel so as not to scar up the seal bore and have it leak by the OD of the seal. I would drill it or punch it and pull it by some of the other means described by the others. As for the wear sleeve if it has one that can be a bit of a different animal with the crank in the block. It is harder to get a pull on since it is just a thing strip of steel around the crank. When the crank is out I just tap them around till they are loose enough to slide off. In the block it is needed to see if you can get a thin jawed puller in behind the sleeve to hook onto the edge of the sleeve and pull it. Pay attention to the wear sleeve when you install it it will have a chamfered edge to it one on the outside and one on the inside at the opposite edge The one at the inside goes on first. This helps allow it to start on the crank and the one at the outside helps with the seal starting on the sleeve when the seal is installed. I use the old enlarged sleeve to push the new one on the crank with a plate of steel and bolts in the crank for the flywheel. Once flush if it needs a bit more I just tap the edge of the old sleeve against the new one. You are only looking for a few thousandths to smooth the chamfer at the crank for the seal. then I start the seal with it well oiled and some on the sleeve hold it tight with the same plate and push it in with the bolts again. Then may need to tap it with the old seal as a cushion when doing so. A sealer may need to be used on the sleeve and seal at installation. Take your time don't try to rush it and pay close attention to things being aligned right in the start of each operation. hand tighten the bolts to pull the sleeve and seal in if it acts wrong stop and check things out.
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Today's Featured Article - Talk of the Town: How to Remove a Broken Bolt - by Staff. Another neat discussion from the Tractor Talk Discussion Forum. The discussion started out with the following post: "I have an aluminum steering gear housing with a bolt broken off in it. The bolt is about a 3/8" x 1 1/2" bolt. I've already drilled the center of the bolt out with about 7/64" drill bit the entire length of the bolt. Only one end of the bolt is visible. I tried to use an easy out but it wasn't budging and I didn't want t
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