more on the front tire. Assuming you have a 2 wheel drive I believe mine came with the 7.5-16 and I had constant flats. The woods 1020 loader bucket when heaped with dirt/rock would not stand up. Went to a 10-16 tri rib, it kicks the front end up, when these age out I'm going to a quad rib of the same with. I also did not have proper ballasting early on, I was under the impression the dealer that installed the loader I bought from them would handle reballasting. They didn't, down here on the gulf coast I'm using straight water in tubes all the way to the top of the wheel rim. Only run into trouble in soft ground or where I've been digging now. 2 wheel drives aren't the best loader tractors but better than not having one. I'm pretty sure they sold me the 1020 more so based on their margin, but maybe a 1027 from that era may work, but may have too much lift power. I'm happy with 1020. This loader has additional loader framing from the front bolster to the transmission bell, I believe. From what I have experienced. The force this loader puts on the tractor, I wouldn't t trust a loader without the extra framing on this tractor.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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