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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: 350 farmall/gas in oil
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Posted by Gerald on January 24, 1999 at 22:43:25:
In Reply to: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: 350 farmall/gas in oil posted by oxen Ridge on January 24, 1999 at 20:57:57:
Sounds like a float valve that is not sealing. The float should be submerged in fuel, then warmed to look for bubbles then cooled to check for vacuum pulling fuel in and then checked for sloshing inside. Gasoline will go through smaller holes than water. Warming gasoline can be very hazardous if there's any ignition sources like electrical switches, pipes, cigarettes, pilot lights in the same building. It might be safer to make the test in water first and only in gasoline if the float passes the water test and the float valve hasn't been replaced again. As a precaution, the float could be coated with SealAll. A goop that will stand gasoline and alchohols. The float valve, needle, and seat should be replaced making sure the right gasket is under the flange of the seat. The float level should be checked by the book to make sure its not holding the fuel level too high. Look for scratches on the sides of the float that might indicate it catching on the sides of the float bowl. Check for wear on the pivot. Replace the pivot. Depending on the relative levels of the carburetor and the oil bath air cleaner fuel might run from the carburetor to the air cleaner, but not more than a couple inches up hill. John T, if an updraft system got enough fuel in the carburetor to rise 4 or more inches to the intake manifold, the first revolution of the engine would fill a cylinder or two with liquid and then would stall the starter. Might bend a rod. Mighty hard to get that much gas in an updraft carburetor because of the float bowl vent. The 4020 that I bought about a year ago needed needle and seat. The JD shop expert wouldn't talk to me about running rich until I replaced needle and seat. The new set lowered the float at least an eighth of an inch and helped reduce rich running significantly. Gerald
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