Two things come to mind, the old regulator failed, and when you installed the new one you got a mounting screw in the wrong position. The one without the plastic insulating sleeve must be closest to the outer edge of the case. The ones with the insulating sleeves must be in the inboard holes. If you got the uninsulated screw where the diode trio connects, it may have blown the trio. An insulated screw with a damaged or missing insulator would have the same effect.
Normally the regulator should be wired so the #2 wire sees constant battery voltage, usually from the BAT stud on the alternator rear. The regulator #1 wire needs to have switched power as in your ignition switch. I have seen aftermarket regulators in the last 10 years that will not allow the regulator to Excite unless the #2 wire has battery voltage, check that wire for voltage.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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