Re: Re: 9N Tractor

Posted by Truck with a long version on how... on February 04, 2002 at 08:26:05 from (152.163.195.188):

In Reply to: Re: 9N Tractor posted by Salmoneye on February 04, 2002 at 06:43:15:

Here's my take on it.. I've done three of these in the last coupla months.Take off the LEFT axle trumpet...Careful with those axles and brakes.. they're HEAVY!!Drain your lube from the rearmost plug and then::
Normally I pull the fenders, seat,and lower link arms. If you can't get the nut off the pin, try an impact.Still can't get it, pull the other end off for now. You'll get it later when the trumpet's apart.
Back way off on the brake adjustment..It's the big square think looking at ya.Just use a wrench and turn it counterclockwise.Disconnect the clutch linkage rod. The brake pedal and clutch pedal are going to come off with the brakes so be prepared.
Pull the 6 11/16 nuts that hold the bearing retainer to the end of the trumpet.Use a hardwood block and a sledge to coax the drum and axle out.The backing plate may come with it. Let it, but have help there to lift, or use a rolling jack on the drum. Most likely some gear oil will escape at this point. be prepared.(YOU Did drain the rear end first, right?)

Now you can pull the Axle trumpet and focus your attention on the link pivot pin and retainer.If it's anything like the ones I have done, the nut will be finger tight after you pull the cotter pin.Use some sort of sealer on the new one and on the retainer plate when you reinstall, and make sure you point the cotter hole where you can actually install a cotter pin once it is torqued.It takes a serious amount of torque to properly install like maybe 250 ft lbs..I just impact it till my impact won't do any more. Last one I actually pulled the threads out of teh castellated nut and had to get another.
If the pin and hole are worn,you may be able to have the pin built up with weld and turned down to an oversize to help with fit.You might need to have the hole in the retainer housing reamed round again. Others have suggested JB weld, I don't have much faith in JB for this particular application. Too much force and knocking around.

Why do the LEFT one???SO as you can pull out the diff and go across and tighten the right side up while you are already there.You have the whole tractor to hold the housing for ya while you tighten the pin, and you cannot go thru the other direction and still apply sufficient torque, IMHO.

Good time to redo gaskets and seals, do the brakes, and maybe even get into the hydraulic chamber and clean things up there. Reassembly is reverse of assembly, but getting the drum/backing plate , etc might be easier if you use long bolts inplace of two of the studs to line up the bearing retainer plate.CHeck out the procedure for setting axle end play in the manual. besure gaskets are in good shape and use sealer. Many brake leaks are caused by the gaskets on the backing plate. Sure seals are a MUST in my book, also. I have a secondary seal of sorts I install on the axle trumpet, secret proprietary info...;-)(It involves a lathe, brakekleen caps, and some blue silicone. Let your imagination tell ya, this post is too long already;-))

Get a FO-4 manual first. Cheeeeep as SOmeone says...:-)

Truck (WHo normally types with elbows, it seems)

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