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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: $$$$$$$$$$$$$!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Posted by G-MAN on August 22, 2002 at 15:46:59 from (206.106.139.74):
In Reply to: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: $$$$$$$$$$$$$!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! posted by gy3020 on August 22, 2002 at 15:06:09:
Those steering valves can be a real bear to get right. You will definitely need a service manual, a good dial indicator and the proper special tool to set it correctly. There are four critical valve adjustments and they are adjusted to .001" and .003", so accuracy is a must for the valve to work properly. We have a set-up here at the dealership that allows us to bench test those valves using another tractor's hydraulic system to verify that they are in fact working properly before reinstallation. If you decide to tackle it yourself, see if your dealer can test it for you before reinstallation. I sure wouldn't blame you if you wanted them to do it, and you could still take it out and carry it in to save some time and labor dollars. I did one on a 4620 a few weeks ago, and since it had been several years since I did the last one, I was pleasantly surprised when it worked correctly the first time.
The synchronizers are a little more involved to get to than the steering valve, but generally easier to repair. Once again, make sure you have some good splitting stands and the proper manual.
You will also need some type of hoist or cherry picker to remove the rockshaft housing so you can get to the rear bearing retainer/trans pump. Nothing really technical, just some heavy parts and a few clearances and torque specs that need to be paid attention to. The clutch will also be fairly straightforward, as long as you get the proper tool for adjusting the fingers. I strongly suggest replacing the rear crank seal, pilot bearing, etc as this is cheap insurance while you're right there. Also, take care when taking the steel hydraulic lines loose on your tractor. Most of them will probably require some heat on the nut to get them apart without damaging them. They're all still available, but there's no since buying new if you can salvage the old ones. A good coating of anti-sieze on the threads and pipes will help make any future repairs much easier. Good luck with the 3020 and email me with any questions you may have.
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