Re: Re: Re: tractor/mower suggestions

Posted by kydavid on November 16, 2002 at 18:35:13 from (64.12.96.236):

In Reply to: Re: Re: tractor/mower suggestions posted by Hawk on November 16, 2002 at 17:43:49:

Full repower. If I do an engine I always go through the pump, injectors, turbo, and clutch while I'm in there. My philosophy is if I'm doing the engine right it's a new engine. If I have a new engine I want it fully powered, that means getting the injectors cleaned and the pump checked. If they are not at 100% might as well get them done while they are out of the tractor. Same with a clutch. Labor is the expensive part, might as well go ahead and do the clutch.

That particular unit had been owned by a person who believe in using a particular synthetic oil that advertises how much longer you can go between changes. May work on the road but don't want to do it off road, kills the bottem of the engine. In fact I've built over 50 AD54 DB engines and the only ones I ever had to put a crank kit in were (2) that ran dry of oil and spun the mains and (4) that used this "magic" oil and they didn't drain and change. Other colors have more or less problems in the bottem end but I put more crank kits in those with that "stuff" than everything else combined. That's why I break in every engine I build with HDX (now FCI) Quaker State(SAE 30) drain and change at 5 hrs (fill with HDX 30 again)and adjust the valves, and include a free oil change at 50 hrs to Shell Rotella 15w40. I warrent engines for 500 hours or one year provided I build them like I think they need to be built and they get an oil change every 150 hrs with Rotella.

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