Re: 8N Manifold Stud

Posted by Dell (WA) on November 24, 2002 at 00:48:10 from (198.81.27.7):

In Reply to: 8N Manifold Stud posted by Bruce on November 23, 2002 at 16:28:00:

Bruce..........Generally, stud replacement is a shadetree mechanic job.
p/n 88403-S, stud, manifold, 7/16-14 X 1/16-20 X 1-5/8 Long, brass nut p/n 33816-S 7/16-20 X 5/8 Hex. (the normal 7/16 nut is 11/16 hex). Torque 27 ft/lbs.

Brass nuts are used on exhaust manifolds be cause they are weaker and will strip their threads before unscrewing the studs outta the water jacket and cause leaks. Just run a 7/16 NSF die down 'em to clean 'em before re-assembly. I always use hi-temp anti-seeze on nuts during assembly.

They claim the manifold studs are suppost to have just a little bit of taper to form a mechanical seal. Don't know. But I always use stud-pucky for sealing the water jacket and doublenut-itt so I can torque the 7/16 stud down to its shoulder to 50 ft/lbs

There is a special "stud removal" tool you can use. Mosta the time the crusted nut is tight enuff that the stud just unscrews outta the block. WARNING: studs go into water jacket, drain your radiator.

BTY you can get stepped studs....ie.....1/2 X 7/16 or 7/16 X 3/8 and matching brass nuts. Just gotta go shopping at a good automotive parts store.

When I replaced my exhaust manifold, I went to 3 different muffler shops and got laffed back out the door when I asked to buy some brass nuts. Didn't know what I was talking about. Your Ford/New Holland dealer has 'em in stock 55c ea, but the aggravation...........Dell

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