Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: ignition resistor

Posted by Hal on May 10, 2003 at 21:21:15 from (24.188.49.98):

In Reply to: Re: Re: Re: Re: ignition resistor posted by Terry on May 10, 2003 at 17:50:29:

The make of distributor has nothing to do with it. It is the coil that determines what resistor, if any, is to be used. The problem is it seems you don't know how the "conversion" was done. Option 1: They could have just left the old 6-volt coil in place and added a resistor to drop the voltage at the coil to six volts; this is most likely since it would be cheapest. Option 2: They may have switched to a 12 volt coil; some 12 volts coils still require an external resistor to drop the voltage to around 9 volts, and then there are other 12 volt coils that require no external resistor at all. Even some 6 volt coils like on the Ford N-series used resistors to drop the voltage to less than 6 volts.
Before you warm up the tractor do what Jon said. Check the voltage at the coil with the points closed; if you have the original coil it should be 6 volts or a little less. Then when the tractor warms up and starts giving you trouble do the test immediately again (with engine off and points closed). If the voltage at the coil is much less then before then you either have a defective resistor, points, or even the ignition switch could be bad. If the switch is bad it can drop voltage just like a resistor does. If the voltage is OK, then possibly the coil or condenser is bad and acting up when they get hot. Only do these checks with the engine not running.

Before you do any of the above check the simple things: Are the points in good shape and properly gapped? If the gap is too close it can cause problems when things warm up. Try replacing the condenser, that is cheap and easy. If you suspect the ignition switch, you can bypass it with a jumper wire tempoarily, if the problem goes away then you know it is the switch. Then go from there if the problem persists. Good luck.

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