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depends on the appplication most can be improved some
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Posted by buickanddeere on June 19, 2007 at 19:36:10 from (216.183.132.114):
In Reply to: Re: Be brighter, look brighter, safer too posted by souNdguy on June 19, 2007 at 12:19:34:
Soundguy It all depends on the machine and application. Does this cover a fairly wide range “the garden tractor headlights, antique tractor head/tail lights, stop lights for some vehicles, modern tractor flasher warning lamps etc” ?You examples lean towards the low powered gennys . All three of the garden tractors have 15amp charging systems. The LX188 in particular goes from 4amp to 8amp lighting load. I suspect she’ll handle it fine. One of these days there will be running lights and a small rear white light installed. Not much chance of overdriving the lights even while in reverse gear. I do like to improve chances of seeing what toys and stones the children have left in the grass should mowing run late and while the days are shorter in the spring & fall. The old 110’s with the starter-generator seem unphased. The fronts are 4amp each on one of them for vision in swirling snow. Not that the garden tractors see very much night usage but it’s nice to be able to see if they do. One of the 110’s blew snow all winter for years with 10amps of lighting load some mornings & evenings. Never had a dead battery or a slow cranking engine The 70D. 80 and 720 all have 25amp 6Vgenerators. Stepping up to 1133’s on the fronts and a 1521 on the single rear lamp work just fine. No ignition load there. Doesn’t take much from a battery to spin the starting engine for a second either. Or just swap the taillight only & to a modest 1133 if you are worried. Some of the gasser two cylinders do have the weenie 12amp generator. At least we can brighten up the red tail light a few watts. Other two cylinder gassers have the later 20amp generators with the cooling fan and smaller drive pulley. 12amp of lights doesn’t bother them unless the operator leaves it at slow idle for a while. Or is one of those cheapskates that “saves” gasoline by shutting off the engine every time they dismount to open or close a gate, door etc. As about the only time the two cylinders see lighting usage is on the road to or from local shows. An hour or two at wide open throttle and lights on has brought no ill effects. 2 minutes of lights on while parking in a dark shed hasn’t bothered either. The 435 diesel already has sealed halogen fronts. The extra 2 amps on the rear light have not brought the electrical system grief to this day. No ignition load there either. The 1640, 2355 & 4050‘s updated to 4 amp warning lights have yet to drain their electrical systems. Around here the Autos & trucks all have 105 or larger amp alternators. A few extra amps are neither here nor there in this application. Particularly for stop lamps which are intermittent. As for your applications with the low powered generators. You could do no wrong to up just the rear red light a few watts. It’s only on when road traveling and that’s usually at full rpms. I would expect less trouble from a generator running at full rated than an alternator at continuous full rated amps. Keep the brushes clean and spring tension on spec, they don’t seem to mind. We usually keep the spider webs and dirt blown clear from the internals as well. We do keep equipment tuned up so they usually start on the 1st or 2nd rotation in less than 1 second’s time. If the batteries never get discharged to any significant degree. The ammeters swing back to only an amp or 2 after 10 minutes running. For those of you; whose signal to perform maintaince only after the battery have been ground dead and the engine failing to start. You are on your own. We don’t go cheap on the batteries either. They are always vibration resistant units and with the most CCA that will fit in the battery box. Now we are changing everything over to AGM’s when required.
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