Re: Re: Re: ENGINE REBUILD HELP!!

Posted by Ron on July 18, 2004 at 03:44:34 from (69.179.21.81):

In Reply to: Re: Re: ENGINE REBUILD HELP!! posted by Steve on July 17, 2004 at 19:34:48:

Every gasket manufacturer has a recommendation for each type gasket they sell. If you use sealer on a type that shouldn't have it, it will leak, every time. If you use the wrong sealer, it will leak, every time. Generally, most modern gaskets are either teflon or silicone coated. They are very smooth to the touch. They are never sealed. Older composition or copper gaskets are usually sealed but you must use the right sealer. If you don't have the instructions that came with the gasket, call their 800# or look on their website.

Coolant leaking into the combustion chamber(s) comes from a gasket not sealing due to several different reasons, a cracked head, or a cracked block. Without seeing the engine I can't be positive but because you have an oil/coolant mixture in two adjacent cylinders the gasket is not sealing across both cylinders and a coolant passage in between them.

Milled or not, the head surface must be checked for warp. The head must be magnafluxed. New head bolts must be obtained unless you rolled them and they are dead straight and the threads are perfect. The bolts must be installed per the manual. Some engines have head bolts that get lightly oiled (to get the correct torque), others have bolts that must have sealer. The correct torque values must be obtained through the correct stepped pattern with an accurate torque wrench. The deck must also be checked with a steel. The service manual has the allowable warp for head and deck. It's usually something like .001" per 12" of head length but don't take this as gospel. You must verify you have the correct gasket and are installing it correctly. When you have this type of problem, you assume nothing and check everything.

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