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Re: OT: Tips/ideas for pole barn, do's/dont's.
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Posted by Gerald J. on December 27, 2004 at 06:53:38 from (63.153.8.146):
In Reply to: OT: Tips/ideas for pole barn, do's/dont's. posted by Markss on December 26, 2004 at 09:07:03:
I went through this exercise a year ago. The crew finished exactly a year ago. I looked at many, starting at the Iowa State Fair. More than half the companies didn't respond though I left them a floor plan and specifications with phone number. So I wasn't able to compare steel to wood framed. I found lumber yards (exept the Menard's kit) were nearly as high as Morton. I found Lester and Champion as high and when I made Cleary meet a good roof load rating their price was on the high side too. The local contractor who assembles Menard's didn't return my phone calls. I boiled it down to Astro, Wyck, and Northland. I was looking at a 50 x 70 with 14' clearance in the doors. Watch out, practically every salesman quoted 14' eaves instead of 14' CLEAR the first time. Gets a better price but a 13'6" implement or combine won't go in! Astro made screws and steel framed doors an extra cost option, Wyck included them in the basic quote and Northland had to use diagonal braces a couple feet down the wall posts because they didn't bolt the trusses to the posts, but just nailed them. There prices were all in a $1000 range around $25,000. Steel has gone up drastically since then but you can often get a winter discount. The crew that built mine last winter had diamond tips on the auger so frost wasn't a big problem. I went with the Wyck. Its construction using screws for the tin and steel frames for the split sliding door seemed as good as any and the cost was very competitive. Doing it yourself isn't easy because the trusses for 10' spacing are heavy and hard to hand without the right tools like a crane. I put in the overhead door myself at extra cost. Gerald J.
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