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Re: Concrete
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Posted by DAVE NE IOWA on January 05, 2005 at 18:21:31 from (66.43.204.103):
In Reply to: Concrete posted by Hoosier JD on January 05, 2005 at 14:15:12:
My guess is you perhaps should have done it last fall regardless -- as concrete PRICES is A going out of site. IF YOU CAN GET IT. Our concrete Co. will not contract or guarentee a price come spring. Seems alot of product is headed overseas is the excuse. A large hog house going up wants 1,ooo cy on the main floor pour in one day--cement Co. said it probably will not happen as the shortage of slate. I will bring up my point of view as one of the most important things is a uniform fill UNDER THE CONCRETE even if you have to escavate to do so. Rebar is very expensive, but I feel very critical. If a costomer wants it good in a shop or machine shed we go 6" of 4,000 reverse mix. 1/2 inch no grade bendable rebar 12 inches on center. Tie the rebar together with twisty wires---and raise the rebar with 1 1/2 in plastic clip chairs so the rebar does its job---(recomended in the bottom 1/3 of your slab). Unless you keep everything heated all winter try to think of friction points where the frost will lift, say along a pole, the approch to your shed etc. and make sure they can slide up and down past each other with little or no friction)expansion joint. Remember frost WILL lift regardless, and if one thing moves and the other doesn't it will crack. Good drainage is important if there is any way possible for your fill as well as drainage away from your slab. Frost lift is more if their is water in your fill (poor drainage). I feel fiber money should be spent on more rebar, fiber is a secondary reinforcment, rebar is a primary reinforcement-- although much more labor intence. Consider laying a short end of rail road rail upside down flush with your poured surface to use as a anvil when beating on things instead of maring up your concrete. I'm not sold on plastic to stop wicking as if you use sand for fill it will draw moisture from the slab, usualy concrete sweats from tempature change, seldom from wicking. Heat in the floor is great but very expensive. Everyone want slope on a slab, but very little, I tell them all to put a 3/4 inch board under one of their kitchen table legs, and dump a glass of water on the table--there is still water on the table as water puddles. Consider a profesional for the pour, get it ready to pour yourself to keep the cost down--maybe tell all your friends that the Dallas coyboy cheerleaders are stopping by after the pour if they help you. I jaaaabered long enough. good luck DAVE NE IOWA
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