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Re:Tractor Flips
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Posted by JoeK on February 16, 2005 at 07:25:01 from (207.230.218.66):
Not to beat a horse to death,but I feel that besides lack of experience/knowledge of safe operations,a major factor can be modifications that commonly occur.Now to start with,I grew up with Fergies and Fords and Pop had me draggin wagons and rakin hay with a 9N by 2nd grade.Until my teens,we never had a tractor with a rigid drawbar,just the 3pt,BUT always used with stabilizer links.We also drug firewood and pulp logs,sometimes using ARP traks,but I don't recall ever having a near miss flipover.
Tractors were designed to a specification,ie:the Ns were designed to pull a two bottom plow or equivelant load as built.However the whole equation changes with bigger tires,fluid weight,wheel weights added to reduce slippage or make the tractor"exceed it's design".When a tractor spins out attempting a task,it has exceeded it's "design"capability.Adding massive weight to the rears does increase it's capability,but at some cost to safety as more traction causes more likelyhood of rearing,than spinning out.It's a fine point of balance that only experience teaches.Picking the wrong gear for the load is important too.While 1st may be the way to go on a stock/unloaded tractor,with fluid/weights maybe you'd be better to use a higher gear/less throttle(better to lug the engine,than flip the tractor),mebbe chains(not used cuz they're a bother)would be the way to go,rather than weight.I see too many "yuppie bait"used tractors on the lots with 1/2 ton of iron hangin on em.My eye says used/abused,not"tough tractor".In short,all I'm sayin is that any driveline mods,weight/tiresize/hp can all change the behavior of the tractor.And of course"proper tool for the job"means though you MAY be able to drive rail spikes with a tack hammer,it's better to use a BFH.
BTW our plow tractor got fluid installed for plowin,removed the rest of the year to barrels.
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