Re: 8n- 12 volt conversion

Posted by souNdguy on May 02, 2006 at 08:12:31 from (12.64.126.216):

In Reply to: 8n- 12 volt conversion posted by Jerry Klingler on May 02, 2006 at 07:53:19:

You are talking about a chunk of money to wholesale change over an electrical system when you don't even know the condition of your existing electrical system. Why not take 5 minutes and do some simple diagnostics before you commit to changing out an electrical system.

I'd also like to point out that if you do go 12v, and have the same level of maintenance as you had on the 6v with frayed and shorting wires, you will go thru alternators every time you start the engine.

Way easier to just do some preventative maintenance than change out electrical systems.

As for a voltage divider to run a 6v starter from a 12v source. thanks.. i needed a good chuckle today... whoever told yuo that one was probably in a good humor mood also.

Your 6v ford starter and oem 3 terminal solenoid will work fine on 12v assuming they are in operable condition.

First. Your 2 brush genny will have 2-3 wires on it. One on the end is the armature.. or charge wire.. it runs to the regulator.. may be marked as arm or 'gen' on the regulator.

Next.. ont he barrel or case of the genny you will have 2 posts.. one is insulated with a rubber or phenolic grommet and that is the field.. the other post is common to the case.. it is a ground reference... ground ref is not always hooked up.. but it is a good idea for it to be hooked up.

Wire from field on genny runs to vr 'field' terminal.

Same with ground.. there will be a ground terminal on the 4 terminal old regulators.. or it may be hooked up to the mounting bracket.

Remove the field wire from the regulator and genny.

make sure the armature wire from the genny to the reg is good. make sure the wire from the reg marked battery is good.

Noe take a jumper wire and jumper/short the battery/armature terminals for a second.

Now.. start the tractor... take a jumper wire and jumper from ground to field this should show max charge on the ammeter.

If it doesn't show any charge, jumper arm and battery at the vreg... if charge then shows, the cutout is stuck open in the vreg.. replace the vreg.

Now.. if the max charge did show, remove that jumper from field to ground at the genny and hook up a wire from genny field to vreg field. Restart tractor.. ammeter should show charge that tapers off to near 0.. if it doesn't.. ( but ammeter does show max charge with the jumper ) then vreg is bad.. field circuit is open.. replace vreg.

As a last test. Take belt off of genny. jumper arm and bat at vreg.. genny should spin.. if it doesn't, ground the field tab. if it does.. genny is most likely good.. this is a motor test.

As you can see.. most of the faults that can arise are VR faults. Only if the genny fails to motor, should you inspect the genny. Also.. Most good rebuilders can rebuild a genny in the 80$ range.. and VR's go between 25-40$

If you do change out to 12v.. you need to provide more info.. like front or side mount distrib.

Side mount is easiest, as you simply get a real 12v coil like a napa IC14SB and drop it in.. then attach the alternator, and hook it's charge wire to the place where the vr 'bat' terminal had been. Then.. depending on if it is a 1 or 3 wire delco 10/12-si type alt.. you hook it up according to instructions.

Post back more precise info to get more precise help.

Soundguy

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