Re: Who has radiant floor heat in there workshop?

Posted by steve n carol on March 22, 2007 at 20:41:29 from (12.219.251.99):

In Reply to: Re: Who has radiant floor heat in there workshop? posted by Randy in Pa on March 22, 2007 at 07:06:35:

Randy you asked, "My contractor wants to do the pour in two sections. 30x70 = 2-30x35s, and pin the slabs. I am leary of the pipes going through a joint. Any tips here? "

Yes, Your contractor wants to place this slab in smaller sections because it's eaiser....That's okay, easy is good. Could be for a number of reasons....as far as pinning the slabs together, do you mean as in smooth steel dowels, say 16" X 1/2" dia? spced avery 2'? thats perfectably acceptable. This pinning controls the "lifting or sinking of the two adjecent pieces. As far as running your pipes through the cold/expansion or control joints, place your pex in a pvc sleeve. shove some styrafoam (injecting foam is best) into the annular space, just enough to keep the concrete from going inside the sleeve. The sleeve allows for any movement that might take place...and it will move. And don't be suprised if your concrete cracks either. Pex is great for concrete encasement! Very forgiving.

It's important that the slab sections are able to move on or around at least 1 side of the pinning dowles. Sometimes we place a "speedy sleeve" into the form work, (its a plastic sleeve that is left in the first pour. It's about 8-10" long and 3/4" dia. After the concrete sets up and the forms are removed, you can insert a smooth dowel into the speedy sleeve and place your next piece of concrete. OR, you can grease a smooth dowel, on one side. This is to allow the concrete NOT to adhere to the dowel. Thereby allowing the concrete to mooooove.
Watch these finishers!!!!!!!!!! (ie shaved apes). You do NOT want your slab reinforcement on the BOTTOM of your finished slab! If you see this taking place, stop the pour!!! and make the crew PICK UP THE REBAR OR MESH. The reinforcement should be placed on "chairs" (plastic supprots) or Dobies" (square concrete blocks, preffably wired). Also, (yeah, I gots lots). the stiffer the concrete the stronger the finished product! Confer with your supplier and the contractor BEFORE you begin, When you place concrete, Hydration occurs. The chemical reaction evaporates the water in the mix, the more water you have, the more microscopic "voids" (where the water droplets were) you will be left with). Remember who is paying for all of this.....get waht YOU want and have paid for.

Now, EXAMPLE #1, Typical tract house in So. Calif.
I pulled up the carpet in the dining room and bathrooms to install tile. The floors were cracked MAJOR! these cracks were 5/8" wide! looked like a giant spider web. i could see dirt below the slab. This is called "shattered" caused by a LAZY crew who is un supervised. We'll just add 100 gals of water and the concrete will level itself!!! that's the mindset of 95% of the tradesmen I have run across! Concrete finishers are the worst!
I know concrete is HARD work...I did it (the right and the wrong way) for 32 years...sl

AND watch these guys as they work arounf your pex, they'll tromp all over it. It should be pressurized with WATER. (can you say hydrostatic pressure). this will leak water (in the wet concrete slab) if it comprimised....okay, i'll stop...sl

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