I did soak the value guides and rings and got the engine loose, but bent a few push rods in the process. I have replaced those, but the engine compression is very low 50 to 65 pounds per cylinder. I am going to try the 12 volt battery with starter as it sounds the simplest. If that fails I’ll still need a little more help because of my lack of knowledge of the hydraulic system. I can place a jack or 2 under the bucket or use an engine hoist above the bucket to try and raise it. My concern is the hydraulics will still prevent it from moving. Do I just need to pull back on the control levers once upward pressure is applied to the bucket and arms to allow the flow of hydraulic fluid in to the lift cylinders? I thought about disconnecting the hydraulic lines to the cylinders and jacking it up before, but my concern was opening the hydraulic system to air. Introducing air into the system was also a reason for not trying to add an alternative hydraulic source. Thanks, Ray
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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