But it does lift up right? If not, there are two long pins at the front of the spring framework. that have to be removed for the springs to work. The pins need to be out for the bean head and in for the cornhead. Don't try to change heads with the pins removed either. If the pins are out, your spring set could well be too much for your head running with float springs alone. Also, if you are running with the header control electronics, there is a 3 or 4 position rotary switch on the right side of the head. I have seen them need to have the mounting screw slots on that switch elongated for the switch to obtain all it's positions. Mine had to be elongated. My head was a Dial A Matic that had been originally on a 6620. My 6600 just had the Auto Header Control. I needed to elongate the screw slots and get a wiring adapter from my dealer to get it to work correctly. Even then, mine always seemed to raise too soon to suit me. If you are running without the header control, then the float springs you have are most probably too much for the weight of your head. As I recall, there is some limited adjustment to the spring tension via the threaded rods in the end of the spring.
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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