Hope Farmer: In some respects this is a loaded question. Weight or the lack of it is completely related to the work one is doing with a particular tractor. Weight robs power, but it also adds stability and traction. There is no question front end loaders or pulling heavy loads of hard ground or roadways require a lot of rear end weight. Heavy hitch loads require, (mounted equipment) enough front end weight to compensate for the rear load. Quite often in a field situation more rubber on the ground will give better pulling ability than added weight. For that reason and compaction concerns we first saw larger tires, then duals, front drive, triples, and finally articulated. The articulated has a unique problem, it was given big horsepower to handle 8 or 12 big tires, and one best make sure the pounds per square inch are relatively close front and rear. If one end is getting better traction than the other end, one will soon make mince meat of the differential with the excessive load. I've seen that one first hand.
My advice, you best come back and tell us which make and model tractor and your specific use. I farmed for years, through the 70s, nine tractors on the go, and each one of them were balasted to suit a high percentage of the work that particular tractor did. You'll seldom get it ideal, other than suitcase front weights, they are not quick change items. If your doing loader work one of the better rear weights is a concrete block your hitch will pickup and go with quickly.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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