This is one of those topics where you get a range of OPINIONS so may as well toss mine out and what works for me.
1) I change oil in the fall before storage cuz I dont want all that acid n residue from the used oil sititn in my crankcase all winter corroding the metal.
2) I put gas stabilizer PLUS some low ash 2 cycle outboard marine oil in the gas tank, run her good n warm with that mixture in the tank to get it in the carb, turn the gas off n let the carb run dry and that can leave some oil film residue to coat n protect the carbs interior
3) Sharpen the blades SO I DONT HAVE TO IN THE SPRING and then coat with grease to prevent rust.
4) Clean off grass so moisture cant accumulate n remain all wet n cause rust,,,,,,,,,grease n oil all lube points,,,,,,keep light film of oil on critical parts n cables to avoid rust
5) Loosen belts so they arent in the same position under tension all winter
6) Air tires full which may help to keep the bead sealed
7) Disconenct a battery cable just in case of any trickle discharges and charge the batery n if possible use a trickle maintenance charger now n then.
8) Keep a loose breatheable dust cover over her to keep off debris but DO NOT have it all tight n sealed so moisture can accumulate n never get air dried
Again, everyone has their own method n opinion, thats just how I do it n it works fine n I intend to continue
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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