Check your battery ground to frame or truck body-where ever the other end of the ground cable attaches to the frame of the truck. Also, check all battery connections, and take cable ends off where they bolt on the battery, and the ground cable where it is attached to the frame. Clean all with a pen knife, or buy a battery cable cleaner, with the wire brush on one end, and in the cap on the other end. Install new bolts at frame ends, and in cables. If it persists, new cables might do the trick. They get corroded inside the covers, and lower the asmount of current going thru them. After all that, a bit of chassis grease on the exposed shiny parts will slow down any more deterioration. And also, make sure the battery hold down holds the battery in its holder tightly! And, if the battery isn't the sealed type--has caps, check the battery water level monthly, and apply distilled water with a tool that yer wife uses to baste the turkey or roast with! Don't get battery acid on it--tastes terrible on Sunday's roast!
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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