when I was a boy, we had drove wells. The water table was close to the surface and easy to reach. back then, we had a rig to drive the well point, using the tractor pulley or a car jacked up and used a double rim bolted to the rear axle. A rope was wound around the pulley/rim in such a waythat pulling on it, tightened the rope and caused the driver to raise...when you loosened tension on the rope, the driver would fall...tamping the point with a section of 2" pipe attached. The well point was a piece about 2 or 3 feet long, had a hardned spear point and the body was perforated with fine mesh wire inside to keep out debris. To this, a 10 foot section of 2" galvanized pipe was attached, a cap was put on the bare threads so the tamper wouldn"t deform them. As each section was driven in the ground, a new section of pipe was added. generally these wells were 40 feet deep. Inside the 2" pipe an 1 1/2" pipe with a foot valve was inserted and to this, the pump was attached. generally, these wells would last about 10 years before the point would clog up and we"d drive a new well 6" to 12" beside the old one and start over.
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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