An electric starter requires a LOT of instantaneous power in order to start an engine. Even on a small gas tractor you are talking something 3,000 watts or so. Bigger gas engines and diesels require much more power – 10 - 20 kilowatts and higher.
Supplying this amount of power from a 120 volt line brings up several problems. (For the following discussion Let’s assume a starter draws 3,000 watts):
1 – A 3,000 watt transformer with a 12 volt secondary is not cheap. Nor is it exactly small – figure about the size of large lunchbox. Locating and adequately protecting (weatherproofing) the transformer on a tractor would be problematic.
2 – Factoring in internal losses, the transformer will require about 3,500 watts input from the 120 volt line. That works out to a 30 amp draw. This is NOT available from your normal residential or farm branch circuit!
3 – You would need a HEAVY cord to supply the transformer. A minimum of #10 would be required. If any substantial cord length was necessary an even bigger #8 cord would be necessary. (Have you priced #8-3 SJO cord lately?!!) Of course special receptacles and cord connectors would be required also.
4 – If your tractor is parked (or stalls/quits) too distant from your high capacity 120 volt circuit, your gonna need the battery ANYWAY to get it started again.
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Bottom line is it’s a lot more cost effective to let battery(s) provide the burst of power necessary to crank up a tractor engine!
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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