That is a really nice area over there, I have a good friend in east berne, some really nice hay ground over there.
Most of the elm here has been hit by the dutch elm, bark is off, and it is dry, even after a rain, it dries back out quickly, compared to those that are dead with bark on, hard too, only soft ones are the big ones that are dead and I have not gone near due to widow makers lurking above. There is about 98 acres here, all kinds of dead and blown down, hardwoods mostly.
I'l have to monitor the stack I suppose but it sounds like the dry elm ought to be the cleanest burning, only reason I am concerned is that the stove pipe goes from the stove 6" to 7" through a concrete wall, elbows up to a 8" x 12" flue in a big ole chimney that is for the fireplace on one side, (have 2 big FP's) those flues are both 2' x 2', they never needed cleaning, oversize helps there. Just that smaller dia flue was concerning me, it's clean, but was plugged if you saw the previous threads on tool talk, but has good draft, that is for sure. I used to run those 2 FP's often years back, but not so much anymore, outside air fed, w/ enclosures and heat exchange ducts to push more heat, they consume some serious wood and you have to watch them constantly, lot of work actually.
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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