What are you using 7018 electrodes with, what kind of machine and settings ?
I can see that happening with this electrode if there is not enough amps and or heat, you can only turn the power down to a certain point to where it will stick when you try to start an arc. Slag on the end of the electrode will close the circuit, for the re-strike you have to knock off the slag, so if you knock it off by tapping against the work, you can start a cycle of this happening. On lower power you need a steady hand, maintaining the arc length uniformly is important, slight change in distance it will stick or close the circuit.
This electrode likes heat, I run a Miller NT250 trailblazer, commonly using Lincoln Electric 7018 DC electrodes between 90 and 120 amps 1/8" and 5/32" and am self taught so I am no expert, but through practice I can produce a very respectable weld, with good base metal penetration, little or no porosity and a good weld profile. I did have some good knowledge of welding practice having been in the construction industry, dealing with AWS criteria and inspections, which helps. The 7018 is strong and does seem to make a good choice for equipment repairs and steel fabrication at home.
Not bad for an amateur, I modified a garage door hanger in when making repairs to an old garage door in a customers building, darned thing was improperly lag bolted to the bottom of wood roof trusses, to the bottom chord, was ready to pull out and the door would have fell on someone soon. Cleaned off the paint where the welds were to be, used the Miller NT 250 with 7018, also it's real important to have a decent clean lense in your shield, as well as having the work illuminated, that was my biggest problem, once I could see the work better, the weld profiles immediately improved.
Overkill, but practice is always good, more than 1 pass here:
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