Sounds as if the solenoid plunger has grown a bit from rust. It might be possible to clean it up, it might be more profitable to replace it. The problem might be in the wiring and the starter pushbutton. My '68 4020 has an auxiliary relay in the circuit to get more power to the solenoid coil, but that won't fix a rusty solenoid plunger or Bendix.
My local auto electric shop rebuilt the starter for my 4020 and put on a new solenoid and Bendix for $90 a couple years ago. That auxiliary relay or the solenoid stuck on and the starter spinning from the engine threw the windings from the armature slots so it needed a whole new armature.
I always ask for a new Bendix, new brushes, and new bearingss when I take a starter in and so far that's made a fine starter.
The guys in the automotive electric shop KNOW how to do starters right the first time and do them fast enough the local shops beats the tractor parts places on price a whole bunch. I've had three done and they've all worked fine.
I had a 6 VW beetle that acted just like your 3020, and it was a wiring problem. That auxiliary relay reduced the current the starter button circuit had to handle and so the starter worked better.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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