6.2 has two different glow-plug systems, depending on the year. You said mid-80s, but the system changes in 1984. Since you're getting 10 seconds of glow-plugging, seems the controller is OK. You don't need an ohm-meter to check. Just see if they are drawing any current. They will draw 6-8 amps each when tested with 12 volts. There is only one correct glow-plug for the 6.2 now - and that's a 10.5 volt dual coil self-regulating plug. If you use Delco, it's a AC60G and its 10.5 volts, NOT 6 volts. If you use Wellman it takes a GO50. When GM changed over to the AC60G plugs (made by Beru in Germany), it throws the timer off a little then don't cycle quite as long as needed. The remedy is - to install a manual over-ride - or change one resistor inside the controller that makes it run four seconds longer. Here are the specs on the only plug sold for the 6.2 now (been that way for 5 years). 12-14 seconds gives the best heat. The Wellman plugs heat much faster.
AC60G (Beru) plug for 6.2 and 6.5 diesels 2 seconds - 10 volts, 8.6 amps and 807 degrees F 5 seconds - 10 volts, 8 amps and 1145 degrees F 9 seconds - 10 volts, 7.3 amps and 1545 degrees F 12 seconds -10 volts, 7 amps, and 1716 degrees F
Wellman GO50 plug for 6.2 and 6.5 diesels
2 seconds - 10.2 volts, 13.6 amps and 1500 degrees F 5 seconds - 10.3 volts, 11.7 amps, and 1560 degrees F 9 seconds - 10.3 volts, 9.66 amps, and 1905 degrees F 12 seconds - 10.4 volts, 8.6 amps, and 2000 degrees F
Now, it sounds like your 6.2 is getting air-bound when parked which is a common problem. The military has a lot of trouble with it in the 6.2s. So did Ford with the early 6.9s. It is caused by any of the following -
Hole in fuel line back by the tank.
Bad check valve in the fuel pump - regardless if mechanical or electric.
Bad housing-pressure-regulator on the injection pump which also serves as an anti-drainback fuel valve.
On Fords only - a leaking Shrader valve on the fuel-filter housing.
In regard to the electric pump you put in, hopefully you mounted it back by the tank?
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