One is assuming you've got a six- or seven-pin connector. Many, but not all, factory breakaway setups have a small charger wired in that draws off the 12v hot wire that charges the breakaway battery when the trailer is hooked up. Often, but not always, this charger is right in the box with your battery. If you have such a charger, you should be all set. If not, a periodic slow charge with a last charge before a trip will do the trick.
Never hurts to test the system. Check the charge on the battery. If the charge appears good, hitch up a tow vehicle but DO NOT CONNECT the electrical plug from the tow vehicle to the trailer. Pull out the breakaway pin and pull forward. The trailer brakes should be locked and the trailer dragging. If that's the case, everything is working fine. Don't forget to put the breakaway pin back in!!!
If you try that test with the trailer electrics plugged in, you run a good chance of smoking your brake controller if you touch the vehicle brake while the breakaway pin is pulled. (I'm no electrician, but I think it has to do with having too much voltage running through, as you would be drawing 12v+ from the breakaway battery plus whatever voltage your controller would be applying to the brake if you should engage it.)
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Smells - by Curtis Von Fange. We are continuing our series on learning to talk the language of our tractor. Since we can’t actually talk to our tractors, though some of the older sect of farmers might disagree, we use our five physical senses to observe and construe what our iron age friends are trying to tell us. We have already talked about some of the colors the unit might leave as clues to its well-being. Now we are going to use our noses to diagnose particular smells. ELECTRICAL SMELLS
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