I never worked on a B Allis Chalmers so I dont know if what I say will work or not,but I will give it a try. Where the O rings go is there a crack?If there is you maybe can seal it with JB Weld.The way we did it on diesels is there would be an eroded area in the metal where the rubber seal of the liner would go.The day before putting in the liner,mix up JBWeld and iron filings,put it in the eroded area,tomorrow sand the JBWeld until its smooth,put liner in. Other people know way more than me about this motor,but if it has a crack in the area where the Oring seals,then you are going to have to fix it some way and I dont know if JBWeld even would work. Next,provided where the cracks are and how bad they are a machine shop might be able to fix it some how.If the cracks are at the top of the bore maybe a head gasket would seal them.If they are in the area at the bottom of the sleeve where the orings seal,I dont see any way that would work.If its not cracked at the bottom of the block,it has to be clean and smooth when you push the liners in or it could cut an oring right when you put it in.If you run the motor without water in it for a while it will snap an oring from the heat.If there is any erosion in the metal of the block where the orings seal you will at least have to fix it with JBWeld or something like that.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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