Re: O/T Chain saw sharpening

Posted by Billy NY on March 31, 2008 at 13:40:18 from (205.188.117.74):

In Reply to: O/T Chain saw sharpening posted by GeneMO on March 31, 2008 at 13:13:35:

From one novice to another:

Figure out what type of chain and cutters are on it, and match the file to it. My Stihl MS 390 has a 3/8" pitch chain and I'm not sure what cutter from memory, I've been using a 15/64 stihl file in their bench mount guide.

My chain has the angle line stamped in it, you could parallel this with a regular hand held guide, but I think it's better with the clamp on the bar guide like the stihl bench mount I use. For some reason I stayed with the OEM accessories, there are all kinds of others out there.

For an accurate sharpen without taking the chain to a place that has the machine, I set the guides of the clamp on bench mount guide, set the guide along the chain, just even with the top of chain,but below the cutter. I use a 30 deg angle setting, and depending on how dull or what I may have hit (usually old barb wire in hedge row trees) with the chain, you try to find the shortest cutter and or figure how many passes with the file ( remember it only cuts in one direction ) it will take and do that many for every cutter. I use the same number of passes on each cutter, usually the cutters stay in decent shape, if you let them get hammered it is a no win situation, takes longer to true em up, more metal has to come off. I get away with about 4 passes if it just dulls up from hard dry elm, hit dirt/rock or similar, it can bugger em up more, sometimes the barbed wire is not that bad, but once it's dull, best to take a breather, put on a fresh chain or sharpen the one that is on there. Cutting with a dull chain is not good.

Another thing is to see how far the raker protrudes up past the cutter, (the thing on the chain that sticks up but is not a cutter). In the instructions I have read it states to file those down if they protrude above the cutter, but you have to be careful, if you take those down too far the chain will cut more agressively, as well as increased kick back. On my saw, I have not worn a chain out yet, nor have those rakers measured to protrude yet, again, there are a lots of variables in chain types etc. You should read up at the Oregon site and others, lot of information to learn from, even for the novice. Do check the chain and maintain proper tension, and also INSPECT the chain for any defects that could cause it to break and fly off, look at the rivets etc.

I can't claim to be an expert, but for a quick on the bench or in the field sharpen, you can use one of these clmap on file guides with a stump vise, I also use a clamp with rubber ends to clamp my saw to a table in the garage, then it's steady, takes me about 15 mintues for a 20" bar and I get an accurate sharpen, that cuts very efficiently. I don't need anything else, when the chain is wore out, I'll get a new one with a sprocket if worn, should keep those matched. Also good to check the bar for wear and make sure the rails wear straight, (even surface to each side of the chain groove) When I sharpen mine

This is a popular subject, you're going to get a whole bunch of advice, just a few cents worth from an amateur here and I'm sure to be corrected :)

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