Gene , I use a Stihl 032 saw with 16" bar, I use only Oregon chain and the method I use is to clamp the bar in a vise, and follow the guide mark that Oregon stamps into the top of the tooth I will even give a new chain a lick or two as machine sharpening can be improved upon. I only cut red oak and hard maple and like to see big chips , not saw dust . when you have your teeth proerly sharpned your saw won't need any downpressure at all , just the angle of the properly sharpened teeth will pull itself into the logand you will feel the difference in the performance. Ishapen my chain every tankfull, I take a break and let it cool down and then adjust the chain tension, and then file . Any time you feel that your saw is not pulling itself into the work you may as well stop and sharpen . Ifile the rakers maybe every 5 6 times that I sharpen teeththen they only need a couple of licks . don't get carried away fileing rakers cuz you may run out of power and your saw will get 'grabby'. Turn over your bar with every new chain and your sprocket too if you can on your particular saw It's real easy to do , once you do it a few times. If your saw wants to bind and cut a curve then your teeth are sharper on one side than the other, then you may want to take your chain to some one with a machine the get them evened out tho if you study the teeth you'll see what you need to do . good luck!gh PS, I use chisel chain.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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