You left out the most important part of the question. Is the trailer rated to carry the weight of the tractor?
A JD730 weighs about 8000# wet plus the trailer weight approx 6000# plus the weight of the F350 about 7500#, puts you right at 22500GCW. That's a good sized load for a F350 SRW with a inexperienced driver pulling in the rain. You could also easyly add another 1000# too your gross weight for carrying rain water.
You'll need to adjust your pin weight so you don't exceed your F350 tire weight rating. At the above weights, that's getting close to not having enough pin weight for trailer stability control of approx 15% of trailer gross weight at the lightest recomend pin weight for GN trailers.
A good rule of thumb for attaining the correct pin weight is to measure your bumper height with the empty trailer attcached. Then drive the load weight forward until the bumper drops 2.5" from the empty measurement. This will be the correct pin weight for 99% of the TV/trailer combinations made.
When descending grades, I never use my brakes more than 3 times with-in the grade length or I'm in too high of a gear ratio. I use lower transmission gears to hold the load weight. Yes, even with a automatic you'll need to manualy select the correct gear for the grade. Error on the slow side.
I always use my trailer brakes first, period! I manually apply my trailer brakes then lightly apply my TV brakes. If you have a PSD, then you will need to use red line rpm for compression braking, approx 3400rpm max, then brake aggressively to 3000rpm, then let up on the brakes to return to 3400rpm then repeat. This keeps the brakes cooler rather than lightly riding the brakes. Using this method, I can get 100k miles out of my TV brakes.
Pulling in rain is just like pulling in snow. If the grade will let you run 30mph under dry conditions then I run at 15mph under wet roads. If there's any chance of ice or snow pack, then it's tire chains on all axles on grades.
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