I personaly never mess with tapping threads and trying to find the right bolt and all. I simply use a self ----DRILLING screw with a hex head. I put it in a battery powered drill and spin it in till it is snug, then wrench it out the rest of the way. I should add a fender washer works good to put on the screw. Always check with your finger to make sure it is moving as you tighten. Heat is always your best friend with those carbs.
That nozzle in simple terms is what gives the tractor a extra shot of gas when you dump the throttle fast so it does not sputter.
I always bead blast every carb, including the nozzle passage before I try to pull it through all that rust, as a common sence issue.
I think three different carbs have showed up with taps broke off inside, then I get to try to fix them. I feel selfish always wishing I got to try first before they twist off every drill plug etc. Taps are very hard steel and you have to heat them a few times to soften the tap.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulic Basics - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In the last entry to this series we gave a brief overview of hydraulic system theory, its basic components and how it works. Now lets take a look at some general maintenance tips that will keep our system operating to its fullest potential. The two biggest enemies to a hydraulic system are dirt and water. Dirt can score the insides of cylinders, spool valves and pumps. Wate
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