Posted by trucker40 on May 04, 2008 at 10:10:02 from (70.240.148.62):
In Reply to: What now?!?! posted by Lanse on May 04, 2008 at 08:37:09:
You might have a rod cap on wrong.You dont want white grease on your rings.STP is alright but I just use motor oil.When you put rod caps or main caps on,the tangs of the bearings are on the same side.Also the mains usually have a mark that points to the front,or a number stamped on them,the arrows all need to point the same way and the numbers,if it has them,should all be stamped on the same side,Also rods can be put in the wrong way.Usually the tang is on the cam side,but it doesnt have to be.Thats why you need a manual or somebody thats done this to help you.Dont get in a hurry,you waited this long a couple of more hours or days is not going to hurt you,to do it right.Usually rod bearings have a little bit of an offset to the bearings,but not always.If they do,and you put it together wrong it might be hard to turn over.When you get pistons in,bolted to the crank its going to get hard to turn over even if you do it right.As the others said you have to check the ring end gap.If it doesnt have any gap,they have to be filed.If you want that done right,and you do,you need to get some help then.A hair out of your head is about 7 thousandths thick.I think ring end gap is about 6 thousandths,thats not a lot.If you file too much,you wont have good compression,not enough,and it will maybe score a cylinder or wear out the ring lands of the piston or lots of other things.Too much gap and it might not even run,or burn oil like a sieve and smoke like a frieght train.You cant eyeball 6 thousandths,so dont get your grinder out and grind a 1/4 inch off of one end of the ring and throw it together.They even make a ring gap grinder,and you grind a little and check it,gind a very little and check it,or a file.You file a little and check it. Sorry I have never built an engine like that so I dont know which side the tang goes on or if the mains have arrows on them,or if you have separate thrust berings on the crank,or what the marks on your cam and crank gears look like or where they go.I just know that it has to be done right or it wont work at all,and if it does,wont last long.Do it right and it will last a long time.I dont think I ever even saw a tractor like yours and I grew up on a farm,am 53 years old.It might be a little hard to find somebody that knows about it,maybe not.While I am thinking about it,usually there is a thrust washer that geos between the cam gear and the block,the brass side goes towards the gear,does it have this?Did you put it in?When you put a cam in be real carefull not to scar the bearings if you have them or dont bang the lobes into the block when you put it in,and have plenty of oil/STP or cam lube if its a new cam on it and the bearings or where it rides in the block.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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