The large output wire will go to the ammeter. The lead from the battery will be alone on one ammeter terminal stud, the alternator's output wire and ALL electrical loads on the other. (If it reads back wards, swap the wires between the two posts.)
You can use the diode, as shown, or an "idiot lamp" or a 10-Ohm, 10-Watt resistor in the "switched excite" lead. Any ONE of those three choices will work equally well. Connecting it up that way provides a safety factor for the alternator, as well as eliminating the need for an extra switch to remember to shut off.
Are you still using the "one-wire" alternator?
In general, that will proably work, although there MAY be exceptions to those working 100% properly when set up as "3-wire" units.
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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