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Re: VH4D with burned valve and stuck head


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Posted by jdemaris on June 03, 2008 at 13:26:15 from (67.142.130.22):

In Reply to: Re: VH4D with burned valve and stuck head posted by Leop on June 03, 2008 at 11:59:49:

Drilling the bolts isn't so easy with the later engines. The older Wisconsins had cast-iron heads, soft valves, and split-skirt pistons. The later ones - D series - have aluminum heads, Stellite exhaust valves with rotators, and cam-ground aluminum pistons.
Best bet with your soft heads is to use drill guide so you can drill a small hole in the center of the broken-bolt. Then, remove the guide and the hole will keep larger drill-bits centered. With the steel-alloy bolts against the aluminum head - electroylsis causes them to fuse together. So, the threaded part of the bolt in the cast-iron block may not be stuck as bad as the shank where it passes through the aluminum head.
In regard to your valves - if one was sticking partially open - you wouldn't hear any ticking. But, this sort of thing tends to happen after an engine has sat for a long time - and gotten rust on the valve-stem. It can also happen another way from overheating - but usually when that happens - the valve sticks when hot - but then frees up once the engine is cool.
Any valve work on the valve seat or face requires pulling the head. Sometimes you can free a stuck valve though - just by reaching in beneath the tappet-cover.
In regard to your oil being thick? No, if anything it's a little thin. That engine is designed to run with straight 30W in any temps over 40 degrees F. I don't even think it has a pressure-oil system - but I don't recall off-hand. Most of the Wisconsin twins and V-fours don't use pressure oil for lube - just use the oil pump to squirt oil on certain parts. But - some of newer engines were changed a bit - and a few had drilled crank-journals with oil ports.


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