If you're not a really, really old guy like me, that system is kinda hard to diagnose. :>)
Tractors use a bigger pulley than autos to make 'em turn slower/last longer. In so doing tho, everything has to be right up to snuff to make it work "normal".
Did you adjust the regulator after you put it on? Did you put a voltmeter across the system to read the actual voltage? Will the system (voltage) pick up the load of the field lights? Are the batteries charged up good? Alternator belt good and tight?
"Usually" on that system, if the light comes on at low speed, it indicates that the alternator is only working on two legs and it is struggling just to "maintain".
Put a voltmeter across the battery(ies). It should read somewhere in the neighborhood of 14.5 volts after the system has stabilized from starting. Pull the field lights on.
The voltmeter should drop a volt or two for just a second and then come right back up to the 14.5 volts. If it doesn't, I'd really suspect that new alternator.
ALl that resistor does is bleed off a certain amount of differential current thru the bulb under hard charge to prevent a "dim" bulb showing up at night.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Plugs & Compression Testing - by Curtis Von Fange. The engine seems to run rough. In the exhaust you can hear an occasion 'poofing' sound like somethings not firing on all cylinders. Under loaded conditions the tractor seems to lack power and it belches black smoke out of the exhaust. For some reason it just doesn't want to start up without cranking and cranking the starter. All these conditions can be signals that your unit is in need of a tune up. Ok, so what is involved in a tune up? You say, swap plugs and file the points....now tha
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