You would be very unlucky to leave it with the points making poor contact, thus being a high resistance to earth and hence overheating and burning. The condensor is designed to stand much more voltage than your battery potential and should simply do nothing while just your battery voltage is applied.
That leaves the coil and ballast resistor, both of which were probably carrying much more than normal operating current, continuously until the battery became discharged.
It is likely the coil has overheated and gone bad as it is designed as an inductor, not a plain resistance load.
If the ballast has gone west then it should start by tempoarily shorting across the ballast, or should start via the auto-short (ballast bypass) system for starting if the conversion was done properly.
Continuity is not everything. Current measurements are much more appropriate (or voltage measurements if you know what you are doing).
Measure the current through the coil with the points closed and open. It should be around 4 and precisely zero amps, respectively. If it is zero and zero, check by directly shorting the points side of the coil to earth. The readings should isolate the faulty component - points or before points. Working systematically along the system will eventually find the fault.
You may have other 'high resistance' connections giving trouble in the circuit also. They can easily add up to 'not enough energy' to fire the plug.
Try and isolate the fault before running out and buying a new coil, or filing the points, or whatever. It is much more satisfying (and plain sensible) just to find the fault and fix it rather than tryng several fixes and finishing up worse off than when you started, 'cos you changed something else, as well, while fiddling.
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