I've had a similar problem with my 664. I assume this is a baler with AutoWrap. On the right hand side, under the shield (near the pulley that drives the AutoWrap gearbox), there is a plastic brush for a shield that covers a disk that rotates as the twine tie runs. You should be familiar with this area since there is a grease fitting in back there. This rotating disk has an off center stub shaft. A cast iron arm mounts on this stub shaft and is held in place with a flat washer and a cotter pin. The other end of the cast iron arm has a spring hooked to it. The arm has to be pulled back by the spring to stop the tie cycle. On my baler the shaft gets rusty and the arm seizes up. Spraying penetrating oil did not fix mine. I had to remove the arm and clean the shaft up with emery cloth.
I apologize if my descriptions are not very clear . If you can't get figure it out, post back and I will take some pics to make it clearer.
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Smells - by Curtis Von Fange. We are continuing our series on learning to talk the language of our tractor. Since we can’t actually talk to our tractors, though some of the older sect of farmers might disagree, we use our five physical senses to observe and construe what our iron age friends are trying to tell us. We have already talked about some of the colors the unit might leave as clues to its well-being. Now we are going to use our noses to diagnose particular smells. ELECTRICAL SMELLS
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