You can ask... but why? Around here that would be a 5000 dollar tractor at most. It doesn't matter if it's had 7000 worth of work... and I don't care if the front end is rebuilt. The back end still has 7000 hours on it. The only way the tractor is worth more money to me is if it's been COMPLETLY gone through and everything checked and renewed up to spec. Then you could justify paying more for it because you know it will last for a while. That said, doing that will cost the owner more than he'll ever recover from the tractor. So.... get there early and see how well it starts cold and how much blow by it has. If it seems OK, stick it in a medium to high gear, give it half throttle, stand on the brakes and let go of the clutch. That'll tell you how the clutch is... Even if he did a pile fo work to it 500 hours ago, it may not be any good now. It's for sale for a reason. You just need to find the real reason.... paperwork won't help with that.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulic Basics - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In the last entry to this series we gave a brief overview of hydraulic system theory, its basic components and how it works. Now lets take a look at some general maintenance tips that will keep our system operating to its fullest potential. The two biggest enemies to a hydraulic system are dirt and water. Dirt can score the insides of cylinders, spool valves and pumps. Wate
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1964 I-H 140 tractor with cultivators and sidedresser. Starts and runs good. Asking 2650. CALL RON AT 502-319-1952
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