Get the truck started and warmed up. Shut the truck off.
Disconnect both truck batteries.
Get a spare battery from some other vehicle, a battery you know to be good and fully charged. Remove one of the truck batteries and install the spare battery in its place. The truck has kind of a "master" and a "slave" battery tied in parallel, the "master" position would be probably work out better for this test. Leave the slave battery cables disconnected.
Now start the truck and evaluate the alternator. If you get 14 volts now, one of the existing truck batteries is bad (shorted cell). If you don't get 14 volts, the problem lies in the truck's alternator or wiring.
I concur with the other poster. Disconnecting the battery grounds with the truck running is a truly terrible idea. You risk destroying the alternator, and damaging any touchy electronics in the truck (like the ABS computer, for example). The charging system relies on the battery to filter out the 3-phase alternator's ripple current, and to damp any electrical spikes that arise as the regulator turns the field current on and off. It would be even worse if you tried this stunt on a gasser or a later model Powerstroke. You risk wiping out the fuel injection computer.
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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