You can probably do it OK... I'd remove the pump from the tractor for the time it takes and then not have to worry about working under the intake manifold, dirt or dropping something. You just remove the access cover in front of the pump to remove the 3 bolts in the timing gear, then the fuel lines and the three bolts that retian the pump to the adapter plate... then remove the pump. It's not a big job.
Once you have the pump in a vise you can remove the linkages from the top of the pump and the cover nuts. When you remove the cover you will find the govenor spring attached to the cover. There are a few different positions for the spring so NOTE which position the spring is located on both ends of the spring. Otherwise it's pretty straight forward. Make sure that the shutoff bar is placed correctly before you reinstall the cover and that's about it... Reinstall in reverse order. So long as you haven't turned the engine over with the pump off you need not worry about the timing. Just PUT THE PUMP BACK ON AND ALIGN IT TO THE TIMING MARKS ON THE ADAPTER PLATE AND PUMP FLANGE AS IT WAS. They are generally set at half a degree clockwise from 'zero', but not always... Check it before removal.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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